2019 Skincare Ingredient Trends: Is Cannabis Worth the Hype?

CBD has quickly risen on the list of buzzy ingredients of 2019. But is this ingredient actually worth the hype?

What is CBD?

CBD stands for cannabidiol and is one of the 80+ chemical compounds extracted from the cannabis sativa plant. The two most well-known cannabinoids are CBD, which does not get you stoned, and THC, which does.

Cannabinoids are chemical messengers that activate a class of cell membrane receptors located throughout the body. These are either naturally produced by the body (endogenous) or outside the body (exogenous) - like CBD.

How is CDB used in skincare?

When it comes to skincare, CBD is mainly used in topical products like face creams, serums, and body lotions. CBD oil has anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties, and it's packed full of vitamins A, D, E and essential fatty acids, which among help:

• Stimulate the cells responsible for producing the tissue that keeps skin firm and healthy;
• Boost collagen production, and help to reduce premature signs of aging; and
• Block free radicals from the body to help slow down the aging process.

Unlike ingesting it, when CBD is slathered on the skin it acts only on the area where it’s applied. It’s unlikely to penetrate deep enough to get into the bloodstream, and it tends to accumulate in the upper skin layers. 

What skin problems does CBD skincare target?

• Premature signs of aging: CBD oil also has antioxidant properties which can help lessen the visible signs of aging skin. By reducing inflammation and counteracting free-radical damage, CBD anti-aging creams may be able to help visibly diminish skin problems like wrinkles, skin dullness, and ruddy skin tone. However, a couple of important things to consider are that: 1) there are plenty of other antioxidants already available that can make the same claims so CBD isn’t the only or “best” antioxidant to seek out; rather, it’s just one of many to consider; and 2) when compared to skincare pillar ingredients like retinols and Vitamin C, the research behind CBD's efficacy in skin care is still relatively in its infancy.
• Sensitive skin and other conditions (dry skin, psoriasis, and eczema): CBD oil acts as an emollient to smooth rough cells on the skin's surface and offers moisturizing benefits.
• Acne - and its many components (blocked pores, excess sebum, inflammation, and proliferation of bacteria): CBD helps suppress breakouts by regulating oil production of the sebaceous glands. Dermatologists are intrigued by the potential of a new non-steroidal tool in their arsenal. If CBD can control inflammation and oil production, it would treat two parts of acne-lesion formation.
• Swelling: CBD can help neutralize inflammation and relieve achy joints or sore muscles before and after workouts.

The increasing number of research studies leave no doubt that CBD has plenty of beneficial properties for the skin. However, it’s important to note that under the FD&C Act, cosmetic products and ingredients don’t need premarket approval, only food and drugs do. So before incorporating this ingredient into your skincare regimen, it pays to do some research and lookout for companies that are transparent with their test results.

This study published in the Journal of the American Medical Association found widespread mislabeling of CBD products sold online. And this other article published by Beauty Independent explains the main issues with weedwashing - brands producing formulas filled with compounds such as hemp stem cells that capitalize on the cannabidiol (CBD) trend, but don’t incorporate CBD.

Finding effective products takes a bit of homework but trust-worthy brands should be willing to provide test results, that are also current.

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