By Nikki Brown | StyleCaster
I don’t need to extol the benefits of retinol (though I’m always happy to). Most of us already know the Vitamin A derivative is the ingredient most often name-dropped and recommended for getting the kind of skin that will make you feel better about going makeup-free. The only caveat for a significant number of us is that it be a literal pain to use. So it should come as no surprise that retinol alternative products are swooping in to save the day (and our face).
Personally, I’ve never had a negative reaction to a retinol product, but I won’t deny the amount of uncomfortable tingling that occurs if you apply more than a dime-sized amount to your face. And for anyone with sensitive skin, that probably happens even when you’re using the recommended amount and limiting it to just a couple nights a week. Truly, nothing better embodies “beauty is pain” better than this. So it’s no wonder people are trading in the real thing for what appears to be an equally effective substitute.
As of late, bakuchiol is undoubtedly the most popular ingredient to replace retinol in skincare routines. For one, it’s plant-based, which automatically makes the decision to switch over feel like a responsible one. More specifically, it’s derived from the seeds and leaves of psoralea corylifolia, better known as the babchi plant, which is native to India and Sri Lanka. It’s long been used in traditional Chinese medicine for healing wounds but is only just being harnessed for its ability to also to smooth out wrinkles and even tone down hyperpigmentation.
Word of mouth is great and all, but I can’t help but wonder if a toned-down version of retinol is ultimately as effective as the real thing. According to Peach & Lily founder and licensed aesthetician Alicia Yoon, most signs point to yes.
“Retinol is so well-researched. It’s an ingredient that is one of the most researched. Having said that, there’s definitely a lot more clinical studies on retinol right now, so it’s hard to know,” she says. “In 10 years or so, those things (alternatives) will probably have a lot of funding and research behind it too.” In short, the amount of testing and clinical studies done so far probably aren’t accurate or complete enough to deliver a verdict.
Until then, whether we want to gamble with bakuchiol or another alternative will largely depend on the experiences of others. The upside according to Yoon is that the majority of people sharing their experiences are seeing great results and shouldn’t be overlooked. “I find for me personally, the anecdotal reviews from people who are really trying the product every day consistently and approaching it the right way are useful. That says volumes.” And whether you’re using retinol or bakuchiol, the same application rules apply to both.
“When it comes to retinol, proceed very thoughtfully and with a lot of caution because you don’t want to ever over-do it. It’s so important to ensure that you’re not mixing too many other acids and things like that,” says Yoon.
“For some skin types, there’s definitely a phase that you have to get through before you start to see the real benefits. Bakuchiol or some of these other alternative ingredients–if you’re not wanting to go through that or even risk it–it could be a great thing to try out.”
This is an especially smart decision if you’re a first-time retinol user and have an important event, like a wedding, on the horizon.
“Start at the lowest amount and see how your skin reacts. It is tempting because you want results like tomorrow, so you go for the extreme. Skincare takes consistency and over time, you see bigger results anyway because your skin doesn’t go through that stressed-out period that takes you a few steps back,” says Yoon.
Should you want to start with something super gentle, here are the most popular retinol alternatives out today. Read more.
Raw Nurture PM Treatment
This highly active night moisturizer is made with bakuchiol, the vitamin A alternative that has become retinol’s biggest competition.
+ Made with Bakuchiol (a powerful Retinol alternative), Peptides, and Vitamin C, this moisturizing treatment delivers powerful benefits overnight—and it works no matter what your skin type.
+ Cold-processed New Zealand Red Algae helps support collagen production, Mānuka Honey nourishes, and Harakeke Seed Oil soothes skin.
+ Use over your favorite serum to wake up with dewy, glowy, super moisturized skin. Try our award-winning PM Serum-Shot.
Raw Nurture PM Treatment is now available on goop 🖤 Shop goop's face oils and serums.